![]() Just an update, I heard the noise again for a very brief moment after the car was driven for a while, but ONLY when I went in reverse, which now makes me wonder if the issue is the CVT (considering for my 2012 Subaru and I'm guessing other Subarus there was an extended 100k/10 year warranty issued. The timing belt tensioner is isolated from the engine oil supply. Maybe I should check the timing belt ASAP before driving it to make sure it's OK and that the belt isn't stretched or frayed (looking through the viewing hole on the left side/taking off the timing cover on the right.) I guess at 97,500 miles, I should just do an entire timing belt kit replacement!? I definitely plan to get this checked out soon, but I won't be able to do this for another few days. Any thought on what's up? It seems probably like an engine issue, and I'm guessing a timing tensioner issue, since they are (I think) oil pressurized (the logic being, adding more oil seemed to immediately fix the problem.) ![]() ![]() After this it went completely awayĪfter the second day I checked my oil dipstick and it was low so I topped it off with a quart, and now when I check it cold it's on the "high" end of the dipstick.Įver since doing this, I haven't noticed the noise even at a cold start before the car warms up, nor have I noticed any other noises. Dang, Sudo goes on the list also as a MIPOCer with the tensioner. for further discussion.But maybe a little lower. Video was taken at 134k (recommended timing belt/water pump job is at 105k). 94probester, this is a timing belt tensioner thread though, not an accessory belt tensioner. PCV valve they wanted $105 dollars to do…I did it for $8 and it took 10-minutes of my time). I probably would have had this done at the dealership, but as I indicated in the original post, they are not known for treating their customers very well and generally, when I’ve gone there they find 3 other things that are “critical” or “necessary” and want to charge an arm and a leg to do the work (i.e. Finally, no lights coming on in the dash.Īs far as oil changes go, it has had regular oil changes every 3,000 - 3,500 miles. My car is currently at 99,500 miles and I Subaru recommends that this belt be changed around 100,000 miles, so it was “routine” in that it was manufacturer recommended. I suppose it could be that I’m hypersensitive to noises now that some work has been done. However, today I noticed that the car was knocking (almost sounds what I think of as a Model T) when idling. So I brought it back, he replaced it and all seemed well. The mechanic who did the work said the initial tensioner was leaking oil, and thus not applying the correct tension to the belt, which in turn was making the engine sound as if it was whirring while driving. I recently installed a starter motor and a knocking noise appeared afterward. It’s frustrating, but don’t feel too bad. There’s a possiblility the new water pump could be faulty too. Early or late valve timing would likely cause a knocking noise too. It has to be put on exactly as spec’d, the alignment marks have to be aligned correctly simultaneously on the crankshaft and camshaft, otherwise the valve timing will be early or late. If an engine mount isn’t put back on correctly or tightly enough, that could cause a noise, especially on acceleration I expect. That has to be done very carefully in order not to break something. I can’t say what is involved on your car as I’ve never done one on that make, but installing a timing belt on a Toyota Corolla (which I have done) involves removing the front engine mount, loosing the mid-engine mounts, and jacking up the engine and is a fairly invasive procedure. That indicates to me the timing belt installation may have not been done correctly, but without more info it is hard to say. If the noise can be heard from around the timing belt cover area, there is a possibility that the noise is coming from the timing belt tensioner. With the hood raised, listen carefully where the noise is coming from. It’s unusual that a tensioner would be defective after the work you had done. Identify if the noise is coming from the timing belt tensioner or tensioner bracket when the engine is cold. As the tensioner gets looser, the belts are going to make a squeaking or chirping noise. Most commonly, when the tensioner pulley starts to go bad, the noise will be the first thing that’s noticed. Like others say, we need to know more about the recent history. Here is a more detailed list of the most common symptoms of a bad tensioner pulley: 1.
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